Chris Vail is really on to something
with his new NTH line. The formula is not complicated: take a classic
watch, stir in some new details, build it to modern specs, sell. He
isn't the only one doing this (arguably, this is the formula for 95
percent of the watchmaking industry) but he is doing it exceedingly
well, and proves it once again with NTH's sophomore effort, the Tropics.
I previewed these back in October, but today I have prototypes of the new Azores and Antilles in hand.
Where the first NTH models drew upon
Rolex and Tudor Submariners, the Tropics derive their design from
1950's and 60's vintage compressor case diving watches, generally
recognized by their internal timing bezels and dual crowns. With rare
exceptions, watches of that era were a good two sizes smaller than they
are today. Recognizing this, Chris sensibly kept the case to a modest
40mm wide and 48mm long. This is by no means undersized, and the
internal bezel tends to make the dial and therefore the watch, appear
slightly larger in person. For my 6.5" wrist, its proportions are ideal
and it should be an easy fit for most people.
He also went to great lengths to
keep the watch as thin as possible. While the prototypes are 11.5mm
thick, production models will be 12mm. This is because the samples have a
Miyota 9015 inside, whereas the finals will run a Swiss Tech Production
STP1-11. The new movement's specs are similar to both the Miyota 9015
and the ETA 2824: 24 jewels, a hacking second hand, a smooth 28.8k bph
vibration rate, and a 44-hour power reserve. Now I do love a thin case,
but given the rising cost of the Miyotas and the undeniable allure that
Swiss movements hold for many buyers, I must admit the STP is a smart
move, and likely well worth the 0.5mm difference, which will be
accomplished with a deeper dish to the case back.
Typical of Chris's watches, the case
is brilliantly executed. Polished surfaces on the bezel, crowns, and
chamfered outer edges of the lugs contrast against the north-south
brushing on the top surface and the vertical brushing on the sides. The
20mm lugs are angular and terminate in a flat "chopped off" tip.
Screw-down crowns at 2 and 4 o'clock
(yes, both screw down) are coin-edged and decorated. The upper crown
has a crosshatch pattern, and the lower one is signed. This lume-filled
logo was one of my favorite features on the Subs, and I am pleased to
see it return. The sapphire crystal is raised, double domed, and
anti-reflective.
Around back, you will find a high
relief stamping of a diving helmet. This is another nod to history, as
the original ESPA Super Compressor cases were marked with a helmet logo.
Please note that the NTH, like most contemporary diving watches, uses a
threaded case back and modern materials to achieve its 200m water
resistance, not a pressure-sensitive bayonet mount case back like the
vintage pieces. To my eye, the case most resembles that of the handsome
Hamilton Cape Horn, without actually mimicking it.
The watches ship with both a
perforated "tropic" rubber strap and a stainless steel "beads of rice"
bracelet. The black rubber strap is 20mm wide, tapering to a signed
buckle. I found it to be quite comfortable, lint-free, and
period-correct.
The bracelet is a nice piece, with solid end links and single-ended screw pins, which makes sizing a breeze. Brushed
outer links and round, polished beads in the center offer fine
articulation, allowing the bracelet to cascade smoothly over your wrist.
It tapers from 20mm to 18mm at the first link, further slimming the
watch. I love this style, and it suits the Tropics' tailored appearance.
It would be the perfect companion to dress up the watch if it were not
for one thing.
My only issue with the bracelet -
and really, my only issue with the watch - is the clasp. It's a fine
piece in and of itself. The brushed surface and polished center match
the case and the links. It has a push-button lock and a wetsuit
extension and both functions operate flawlessly. It looks and feels like
an industrial-strength unit of professional diving equipment, but
that's the problem. It is 42mm long, 8.6mm thick, and that is just too
big. At first glance, it looks as if it is almost as large as the watch
head. It isn't, of course, but the boxy shape contributes to the
illusion. The finished products will have taller, wedge-shaped links to
meet the clasp and ease the transition, but the height will be the same.
I did not find it to be uncomfortable or intrusive, just inappropriate.
It would be right at home on a chunky dive monster with a chiseled link
bracelet, but on these svelte watches, it's like wearing Doc Martins
with a Tom Ford suit. I hate to say it, but I'd swap the clasp for a
lower profile aftermarket flip-lock.
The range features two distinct
dials: the sporty Azores and the refined Antilles. The Azores features
Arabic numbers inside large triangles at 12, 3, 6, and 9, not unlike the
classic Eterna Kon Tiki and any number of similar watches of the era,
like my Majestime.
The other markers are oversized darts piercing the black dial's
sand-textured center section. Similar to the Subs, the Tropics bear the
NTH logo as well as the model name in a distinctive and attractively
stylized typeface. It is available with or without a date.
The handset consists of polished,
faceted arrows and a paddle-tipped second hand. The polished shaft of
the hour hand occasionally disappears against the black surface, but its
lumed head maintains readability. The Azores comes in two lume
"flavors": aged radium Vanilla and Mint Green. Many vintage divers used a
very bright green lume, but the Azores has far more white in it. I like
its subtlety. Bezel markings are lumed as well, with numbers only at 15
and 45, and positive and negative triangles at 12 and 6. The aggressive
angles and bold contrast make for an eye-catching dial in the daytime,
but it delivers its best punch at night when all that green pops to
life.
The Antilles is the dressier of the
two watches, which is not to say it is a dress watch, but with applied
and polished markers, coffin hands, and a sunray dial, it offers more
dimension and refinement than it sporty stablemate. In place of the
Azores's dive timer, the Antilles is marked for a second time zone. Tall
numbers in a radial arrangement bring a bit of Bauhaus into the
picture. Production models will have a heavier font on the bezel to
maximize lume and improve night visibility, but not too heavy, I hope,
as I rather like the way the numbers match the width of the markers.
Options include black, blue, and
champagne sunray dials, or a full-lume white dial with gray lume in the
markers. Black and white dials have a date option. I requested the
champagne dial – not because I like champagne dials, mind you. I
generally find the yellow tones in gold dials hard to take. Don't ask me
why. I know they are a classic look and ideal for dressier watches, but
I have yet to own one that I really love. Still, Chris was proud of the
way this one turned out, and it looked more brown than yellow in the
photos, so I gave it a shot, and I'm glad I did. This is one beautiful
watch. Everyone who sees it, watch nerd or no, says the same. It is not
champagne or at least no variant of sparkling wine I've ever seen. I
tried my best to torture the metaphor and liken it to ale or whiskey,
but it lacks the necessary red tones. It's really more of a bronze color
that shifts from golden brown to smoky gold as it catches the light,
setting off the tall, polished markers and black bezel. It's just
gorgeous.
Overall, I enjoyed my time with both
of these watches. Once again, NTH has captured the essence of a
mid-century classic and turned it into something fresh. Given the
availability of inexpensive aftermarket replacements, I wouldn't call
the bracelet clasp a deal breaker, but it is something to consider.
The Tropics collection will be $700
after the pre-order period but are currently available for $500, which
is a nice price for a watch this cool with a Swiss mechanical movement.
Check them out at out janistrading.com.
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